Budapest - Vienna - Prague

A look into my various grand (mis)adventures throughout Europe

Before I begin, I'd like to give massive props to people who travel or backpack for a living. This past week is probably the closest I will ever be to that sort of lifestyle, and while it was extremely rewarding, it was also very, very exhausting. Packing up just as quickly as you settle down, keeping up with the different currencies (Did anyone else know that Budapest doesn't take euros??), navigating the language barriers and the transportation systems: all of these were things my companions and I had to navigate in Budapest, Vienna, and Prague. Moreover, one of us was handicap most of the time, but more on that later. At the same time, however, it was fascinating to whirl through each of these three cities; all of them seemed like slightly different versions of each other. It was certainly an unforgettable and wonderful privilege to visit three different countries in such a short amount of time. So what does one do with three days in each place?

Budapest

In today's breaking news: George Ezra has never even been to Budapest. Who knows if that "golden grand piano" or "beautiful Castillo" even exist. Nonetheless, Budapest astounded me in the best way possible. We got off to a rocky start (Get the correct tram ticket into the city center! Stock up on forints!), especially since this was the city where four of us were attempting to meet up. Now Budapest does not exactly have the grandiose, romantic atmosphere that one might associate with all European cities. For the most part, it exuded a bold, artsy attitude that probably has something to do with its turbulent personal history; as our tour guide succinctly said, Hungary is famous for choosing the wrong side in wars. But in and around the entire city (which actually consists of two regions, Buda and Pest, divided by the Danube River) are structures that are every bit European majesty: the Hungarian Parliament, the Fisherman's Bastion, St. Stephen's Basilica.

The last one in particular brought my appreciation for Budapest to new heights (literally). The basilica itself required a minimal donation, and for a reasonable price--and a student discount!--my friends and I trekked up the tower and viewed the city from above. We happened to go on the most beautiful day of our stay, so the limit was really only as far as our eyes could see. Let me tell you, absolutely nothing beats a bird's eye view of a city, a fact I discovered in Vienna and Prague as well. The beauty of these vistas is that I could see these places in their truest characters: from the popular, tourist-y city centers, to their more simplistic outskirts, to the quaint hills that indicated a peaceful, verdant countryside beyond.

If anyone is looking to go to Budapest, there is one place that is a must-see. The city is known for its "ruin pubs," bars built into the remains of abandoned buildings. The results can range from low-key, open-air establishments to edgy, eclectic labyrinths. Szimpla is certainly the latter. This pub is h u g e. Each room has a different theme; one floor has lush greenery hanging from its ceilings (see above) and creeping along its walls, another has hair dryers and vintage televisions suspended in the air. I didn't exactly count, but there are at least three different bars in Szimpla, one of which serves their drinks in science beakers. It is the perfect place for the hipster artist, the trendy Instagram influencer, the impressionable tourist (me). We even saw a family with young children in there, so I suppose you could bring your family along? The food wasn't bad, either--but if you want to separate your food from your ~drink~, Szimpla is located in Budapest's Jewish District, where there is no shortage of good, affordable food. There was the famous sandwich place Bors, with its adorably Star Wars-themed decor, or the outdoor food market Karavan, which had everything from vegan options to chimney cakes, a Central European delicacy.

Vienna

If Budapest is a mischievous youngster, Vienna is its mature older sibling. Here there were luxurious, detailed facades and sophisticated structures galore. Just a walk through the Museum Quarter was a fine display of the capital city's extensive history. In Vienna we also stayed in by far the nicest hostel I have ever been in: Hostel Ruthensteiner, located conveniently close to the metro station and more like a hotel with bunk beds than a traditional hostel. My weary fellow travelers and I were greeted with warm apple cinnamon tea and an equally warm reception desk that was willing to help us out with every single inquiry we had. Among the most impressive was their provision of crutches for our friend with a sprained ankle. Although they didn't seem to know the word "crutches," they miraculously had a pair in inventory--though each crutch was located in a different place in the hostel, a phenomenon I am still pondering.

We tried to make it a point to learn about the history of each city we visited, and to do so in Vienna we visited the House of Austrian History. The exhibits themselves only took up two rooms; but these, combined with the two expansive floors of the Classical Ephesos Museum, were densely packed with fascinating art, information, and interactive sites that showcased Vienna's appreciation for both their own and others' stories. Before we knew it, we had spent over three hours wandering the around the place and had covered centuries' worth of world history.

Another place worth visiting is Schönbrunn Palace, essentially Austria's version of Versailles. I've always preferred historic locations like homes or palaces to museums. I suppose there's something thrilling about walking the same halls as those who have made the history books, completely surrounding yourself in their world for a time. Schönbrunn was as beautiful and lush as you'd expect a Hapsburg palace to be, complete with gilded walls and its own Hall of Mirrors. The staff was also nice enough to lend our injured friend a wheelchair during our visit, which was fun to push around on the level floors of the estate, but a little less pleasurable in the gardens (see above: steep hills).

Oh, Vienna still doesn't sound fancy enough? On the evening of our arrival, clad in sneakers, t-shirts, flannels, etc., we spontaneously attended a classical concert in the Palais Palffy. We were convinced by a ticket seller just a couple of hours beforehand, who also offered a last-minute discount. Opera singers belted their hearts out, dancers leapt gracefully across the stage, and an orchestra played a variety of Mozart and Strauss pieces, including one of my favorites, "The Blue Danube." Unfortunately, white satin gloves and opera glasses were not included in the price.

Prague

Like Budapest, I wasn't expecting to love Prague as much as I did. We had another rough start, coming out of a 4-hour train ride tired and hangry. Additionally, our hostel was a little less than ideal, but I can now look back on it as a valuable, quintessential backpackers' experience.

Prague has the sophisticated beauty of Vienna and the fun-loving charm of Budapest. Its winding streets filled with small shops and cafes and the ornate facades of its buildings reminded me of Busch Gardens (Williamsburg, of course). We may have done it a bit backwards in seeing the Charles Bridge at night first, but I believe it was a perfect decision. It's one of those sights that cannot be accurately captured by camera: the dining cruises lazily floating across the river, the Prague Castle looming authoritatively in the distance, the warm lights twinkling in practically every window. Especially after a hectic day of traveling, commuting, and checking in, it was the perfect way to end our first day.

Our group also had the privilege to go on a free tour of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery, which is appropriately located in Prague's neighbor Pilsen. As a town, Pilsen is definitely on a smaller, quieter scale than Prague, emphasized all the more by the curious looks from locals and the stillness of the grocery store we visited there. I have never considered myself much of a beer person, but it was interesting to learn about the intricate process of brewing--and how much devotion Pilsner has to its craft (triple boiling!). Visitors also get the opportunity to taste unfiltered Pilsner beer, and by "taste" I mean a 5 minute chug that was no problem for some, and clearly a trial for others (me). We were further #blessed with an all-expenses paid dinner, thanks to the generosity of one of our friends' parents. Keeping in mind that the U.S. dollar is stronger in Prague, we were not shy about what we ordered--I'm talking starters, mains, desserts, and drinks--but we still wound up spending about half the maximum. Our walk to our train home was more like a precarious, painstakingly slow hobble with stomachs full of pretzels and potatoes. Case in point: if you're looking to eat well for reasonable prices, Prague is the place to go.

One of my school's most popular study abroad experiences is in Prague, and whenever I have met someone who has been they have nothing but high praise and fond memories of the city. And while I was once unable to understand their love for a city of which I knew practically nothing, a mere three days has given me a profound sense of the fantastical, almost magical spirit of Prague that can't be found anywhere else.

Although this week went by in a flash, it has managed to give me three unique, unforgettable impressions of these destinations. Each city distinguishes itself in my mind with its own colors, sounds, sensations. There may be rows of pictures on my phone that capture certain moments in time, but they will be nothing compared to the power of memory. In Budapest, Vienna, and Prague I realized that photos will merely supplement the recollection of these experiences; it is much more so the emotions I felt, and the people with whom I spent my time, that will preserve each of these cities with an unparalleled vividness.